Tuesday 23 September 2008

One warm room

Insulating one room is pretty simple stuff as long as you don't forget to make sure your pipes don't freeze.
Of course, it means you have to insulate your internal walls too, so you may be able to do the entire house for not much more!
I'll try to get something together on my blog, and post it here so that people can put their info in.
But briefly:
You have to sort out what your budget is, what the climate is- warm or cold summers, does it often go below freezing and how long for etc, and what the construction of the house is.

If you live in a climate which can get hot in the summer the first thing I would consider is an attic fan:
http://www.solarnet.org/AtticFan.htm
Solar Utilities Network: Attic Fans

Back to looking at the problem from cold:

Check for drafts first - they can pull the heat out of a room in no time, but put in enough ventilation or you will get mould.

This site gives a good guide to the alternatives for insulation for different wall and roof constructions:
http://www.celotex.co.uk/

If you have a brick built house with a cavity wall you can have insulation pumped in.
If it is a solid brick or stone structure then the best way is to build outside it, and insulate the new structure effectively.
The big enemy is damp, so take account of that whatever you do.
Because of planning permission or expense - for instance if you are in an upper story flat - you may have no option but to so the insulation inside- see the Celotex site again for info on this, and be very careful of damp.

In the attic space go for at least 270mm of insulation - that is for Britain, other countries may vary.
You can also buy insulation in blankets which go directly under the tiles if you have an inhabited attic space.

If your main living area has a high ceiling, consider a false roof, which will give you plenty of space for insulation.
If you are just insulating one room, then don't forget the space between the floorboards of the room above.
In large,open plan housing then stud partitioning is fairly inexpensive, but don't forget that you will need a double skin for insulation.

For areas where you don't have room to put in insulation, consider using aerogel, which provides huge amounts of insulation as it is around 37 times as efficient as fibreglass:
http://www.aerogel.com/
ASPEN AEROGELS | NANOTECHNOLOGY AT WORK™

It is fairly expensive, at $5sq ft, but useful for instance in the rebates of windows - it is surprising how much heat they can loose.
Talking about windows, obviously if you can afford double or triple glazing that is the way to go.
Less expensively, consider insulated curtains.
And really cheaply, buy the bubble plastic they use in gardening, and attach it to your windows when it gets cold - you will find it at the gardening stores.

Lastly, a couple of thoughts on selecting and sealing one room for the winter.
Choose a room with easy access to the bathroom , and with a kitchen area, as cooking will provide much of your heat.
Bedrooms can be a space in this area, or if the climate is not too severe or you are tough enough you can put on old fashioned things like pajamas and night-caps(!) before heading off to bed in another room.
Your bathroom may be in or out of the heavily insulated area also, but if it is out of the heated area use heat tape to prevent the pipes freezing:
http://www.mygreathome.com/fix-it_guide/heat_tape.htm
How To Install Heat Tape
If you have a bathroom which is conveniently near enough to the area you intend to insulate that it can be done inexpensively, that is great, but if you have a second bathroom you may want to cut off the water to that part of the house in the winter an drain the pipes to prevent them freezing - putting in a valve to do this is easy and cheap, or you could use more heat tape.

Try to design your layout so that as and when more funds become available you can extend the insulated area without wrecking too much - if I were just insulating one room I would make most of it fairly temporary and movable rather than beautiful.

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

Dave,

I followed your link from the Oildrum.

I live in a typical 3 bed semi, built without cavity walls in 1905. It is representative of probably the poorest sector of the housing stock in terms of energy efficiency - built for a time when coal fires were in every room.

I moved in in Aug 2000, and quickly set about insulating the loft. It had no insulation, so I added 100mm, to allow the central section to be boarded. I intend to increase the depth of insulation in the non-boarded section, by adding at least another 200mm.

The slate roof was built without roofing felt, and is really in need of replacing. I intend to fit celotex or similar between the rafters to achieve a warm loft space.

Solid 9" walls present some problems with insulation - and as you say you have to avoid damp and condensation. As the room sizes are quite generous, they will allow for 50mm of celotex on the fitted internally to outside walls. 50mm of celotex on the ceilings will compensate for the less than desirable rockwool in the boarded section of the loft.

I find it useful to keep a log of energy consumption. You can keep track of daily and seasonal changes. It also helps prove that any improvements are having a positive effect lowering the domestic energy consumption.

Main improvements were new condensing gas boiler in 2005 and underfloor heating to the back kitchen and bathroom of the house. What had been a draughty uninviting bathroom has now benefited from insulation and warm floor tiles.

This month I am installing a wood burning stove with backboiler to help keep the living room a warm focal point of the house and also offset some of my gas consumption.
Diversifying my primary energy source from just gas should give greater energy security if gas supplies fail in future years for political reasons.

Keep up the good work.


Ken

DaveMart said...

Ken, thanks for your real world experience - I am hoping we can put some stuff together which will be valuable for others.
What have you done with yoru windows? Did you need to increase ventilation?
Regards,
DaveM

Anonymous said...

Hi Dave

On my 3rd house now which has undergone a major improvement in energy efficiency.

House is a 4 bed detatched built in 1985. When I moved in only 50mm of loose fill in the loft. Subsequently I have increased loft insulation to 450mm. Also had the cavities filled. Installed 12kw gloworm condensing boiler, pipe lagging. Installed solar water heating - 40 vacuum tubes. CFL's throughout. Refrigerators insulated with foil bubble wrap to improve efficiency.

Basically for a household of 3 I have cut gas usage to 7500kwh per annum and electricity to 3500.

At a cross roads moment right now as I am waiting for an employment contract to arrive - and if it does I shall be off to KSA for 3-5 years. If not next plan was to put a stove in, like Ken to diversify heating sources. Not cheap though as I would have to install a twin wall flue as I am not blessed with a chimney stack.

On top of this I have invested in an emergency kit to deal with long interuptions in supply. This includes a woodgas stove, kelly kettle, parafin lamps, meths stove, and some spare solar vacuum tubes which can heat water to boiling in a few hours in the right conditions. Over the summer I had a few weekends 'fun' where everything was cooked using the sun / waste wood. Time consuming but doable.

Other possible projects include water conservation using a couple of 1000 litre IBC's

regards

Nick